The Basque Country, with its deep-rooted traditions and distinct language, offers a unique culinary and cultural experience in Northern Spain. Nestled between scenic mountains and the Cantabrian Sea, it boasts a blend of natural beauty, urban delights and extraordinarily friendly people.
The culinary preeminence of this region transcends all elements of its food culture, from simple pintxos to Michelin star restaurants such as Arzak and Etxebarri, along with its private Gastronomic Societies and casual cafes.
I first discovered the Basque Country when researching our Camino de Santiago tour in 2005, as the first few days of our Camino journey are in the Basque country of France and Spain. I fell in love with its incredible history and resilience, spectacular landscapes, high-spirited and welcoming people and delicious food and wine. So from this time it became a mission to develop a tour exclusively devoted to the Basque Country of Spain.
The following images and text give you an indication of what our Basque Culinary tour uncovers.
La Concha Beach, San Sebastian
Bilbao
Our journey begins in the vibrant riverside city of Bilbao, a hub of architecture and design, where gritty factories and shipyards have given way to cutting-edge landmarks such as the titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum along a revitalised waterfront where Jeff Koon’s striking Puppy is a highlight.
One of my favourite towns is Laguardia, centre of the Rioja wine region. It is a small town in a sensational location with spectacular views, a charming vibe and significant history.
Laguardia
The other Frank Gehry architectural treasure is the Marqués de Riscal winery just outside Laguardia where we enjoy lunch and a guided tour of the winery followed by a tasting of their stunning wines.
Marqués de Riscal winery
The coastal regions including Hondarribia and towns like Getaria are magnificent, offering stunning views, sensational fishing communities and farms producing cheese, wine and a variety of fruits and vegetables.
Cantabrian coast
Getaria
Near Getaria
Hondarribia
San Juan de Pasajes
Culinary excellence
Beyond the extraordinary character of the Basque region is its culinary excellence. From 3 star Michelin restaurants like Arzak who have been exhibiting culinary brilliance for close to 30 years, to the famous casual pintxos in San Sebastian, one is taken aback at every turn.
Arzak
Arzak is a favourite of Epicurious travel and we have enjoyed this delightful restaurant as our final dinner location numerous times. The super relaxed yet highly professional service is a highlight along with stunning food and wine. They have held 3 Michelin stars since 1989.
Elena Arzak is the head chef of this renowned Basque restaurant in San Sebastian. Elena studied with her father, chef Juan Mari Arzak and runs the restaurant alongside him. She is the fourth generation in her family to work at the family restaurant, which began in 1897 as a wine shop and tavern. She also studied with Chef Ferran Adria, who classifies her as one of the most important chefs in recent history. In the late 1970s, Elena’s father Juan Mari Arzak and a group of chefs revolutionised the art of cooking when they created a new culinary concept, a movement known as New Basque Cuisine. She continues to promote the movement which is focused on using local, seasonal ingredients while also incorporating innovative techniques and presentation.
Etxebarri
Etxebarri is one of the most sought after restaurants in the Basque Country or even the world. We have been fortunate to have our group lunch confirmed on each occasion that we requested a reservation at this outstanding restaurant but you have to be patient because it can take months for an outcome. I have to say it is worth it. The secrets of flame-grilled cooking that have been mastered by Etxebarri’s owner and chef Victor Arguinzoniz are fascinating. His particular vision for life and for work resulted in him restoring this 18C country house in his home village, Axpe-Atxondo, at the foot of Mt Anboto. His unique cuisine focuses on top-quality grilled dishes using different types of wood (holm oak, vine shoots, oak from old barrels etc), utensils he invented himself, and an unusual system of pulleys that enables him to control the cooking process. He delivers unforgettable dishes such as the famous egg yolk and white truffle, the legendary matured beef chop, and the unequalled reduced milk ice cream with beetroot juice.
A cooking class at one of the famous Gastronomic Society in San Sebastian
Sharing a common love for food and drink, many citizens ( predominantly men ) belong to private gastronomic societies, where members cook, dine and socialise in a relaxed environment which is part restaurant and part home kitchen. Our delightful guide is a member of such a society and we are invited to become temporary members and enjoy an informal cooking class and lunch together. This is marvellous fun and a great insight into the passion and significance of food and wine to the Basque community.
The hotels we love
Palacio Samaniego near Laguardia
Akelarre on the coast near San Sebastian
Hotel Maria Cristina in the city of San Sebastian
Our local guide for the journey – Colm Garayoa Kearns
Born and raised in San Sebastian to a Basque father and Irish mother, he completed his elementary studies at The English School and technical studies in electricity in San Sebastian.
After a few years of working in that world he spent time travelling and working in Ireland, Scotland and Australia. This is when he discovered his love for Euskadi and his desire to work in travel enabled him to express the three pillars of his land: gastronomy, landscapes and friendships.
A member of one of the most prestigious gastronomic societies in San Sebastian his love of cooking grew along with his passion for the wine growing area of La Rioja.
The secret of his success is humility and naturalness, ensuring his guests feel relaxed and confident in his company.
